What it’s like to stay on a military sea fort in the Solent
When seaside cottages and country inns don’t cut it anymore
If you’re after an unusual place to enjoy a weekend break or a mid-week getaway, look no further. What was once a military sea fort, designed to protect Britain from a French invasion, is now a lavish luxury hotel: No Man’s Fort.
But what is it really like to spend a night cast away on a military fort? We travelled to Portsmouth to find out.
What is No Man’s Fort?
Built between 1865 and 1880, four forts were commissioned by Lord Palmerston to sit in the Solent to protect against a suspected French invasion. However, by the time the sea forts were finished, the tensions had long passed so they were never actually used for the intended purpose.
After years of neglect, the forts were decommissioned in 1956 and, thanks to a multi-million pound investment, No Man’s Fort got a new lease of life as a luxury hotel in 2015.
What is it like on board?
This place is all about enjoying the little luxuries in life and embracing being able to slow down and escape the daily grind.
Karlina Valeiko
On arrival, guests are welcomed in the bright, sun-lit (on a clear day) atrium with a glass of champagne and taken on a tour to learn about the fort's history and see where supplies and ammunition were once kept. After the tour, you’re checked into your room, where your luggage already awaits. When the fort was renovated, many of the original features were preserved, such as the black hooks on the walls in the rooms where soldiers’ hammocks once hung from.
The 23 en-suite rooms are a comfortable size with nautical decorations throughout and stunning sea views. Book the Superior Suite and you’ll enjoy a freestanding bathtub in the bedroom overlooking the Solent, or the two-bedroom Lighthouse suite for a private balcony to celebrate special occasions in style. At night, leave your window slightly ajar and let the sound of the ocean waves lull you to sleep.
Amazing Venues
There’s a French-themed bar, La Resistance, with a cobbled floor and red-brick wall that resembles a pretty Parisian street more than a military fort. This is where a light lunch buffet is served, and even if you don’t feel particularly peckish, it’s still worth going down to snap a few photos.
In the evening everything, from the tunes of Frank Sinatra welcoming you in the atrium for an apéritif to the candle-lit dinner, feels like a special occasion. The three-course fine-dining menu in the Mess Hall celebrates the local produce and always focuses on what’s in season, offering only the freshest ingredients.
Amazing Venues
After dinner, you can join the other guests around the fire pit to toast marshmallows and drink hot chocolate, or dive right back into the hot tub. Head up to the top of the lighthouse before going to bed to see the glimmering lights of Portsmouth to the north, the Isle of Wight to the southwest and the ships heading towards the English Channel.
In the morning, a hearty breakfast is served in the Mess Hall, before a boat takes you back to the shore.
What can you do on No Man’s Fort?
For a small retreat stranded in the sea, there’s plenty to keep you busy for a day or two – try your hand at fishing sea trout or mackerel, count the ships passing by from the hot tub and relax in the sauna.
Throughout the afternoon you can play darts, snooker or pool in one of the games rooms or just explore the fort. Don’t miss the Commando Leap – a narrow viewing platform sticking out of the northern side of the fort. If you’re brave enough, walk to the end and feel it slightly moving in the wind with nothing but the sea beneath. It’s the best spot on the fort to see the sunset too.
A wide range of spa treatments is available, from mini facials to a romantic couples massage, and an exhilarating rib ride across the Solent waves will please thrill-seekers.
If you’ve ever dreamed of impressing your friends by opening a champagne bottle with a sabre, also known as sabrage, this is your chance. The experts aboard are licensed and insured to teach you this sophisticated party trick.
What’s the best part about staying on No Man’s Fort?
There is no doubt that the hot tub, with its breath-taking sea views, is a major draw. However the dinner experience has to be the highlight for us. The menu offers a choice of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes cooked with fresh, seasonal ingredients – our's featured such autumnal delights as scallops, duck, salt marsh lamb, squash and pears.
Amazing Venues
Who is it for?
No Man’s Fort isn’t your average getaway, so it’s great if you want to splash out on something a bit more exciting. It's perfect for a relaxing couples' retreat or a special treat for a friend or a family member. You can even hire the whole fort for an event, so if you’re in the market for a unique wedding, birthday or hen party venue, this is definitely it.
How do I get there?
After you’ve checked in at the Solent Forts office at the Gunwharf Quays, a boat will take you to the fort (around 30 minutes).
The boat ride offers amazing views of the Spinnaker Tower and Portsmouth seaside so keep your camera ready. On a windy day (of which there are plenty) the ride can be especially bumpy so wear suitable footwear and clothing, and take care with your phone or camera if you’re taking pictures.
How much does it cost?
Although it might seem rather costly, with prices starting from £379 per night (excluding activities), the stay does include a full breakfast, a three-course dinner and boat transfer to and from the fort. After spending a night on what’s probably one of Britain’s most unusual hotels, we think it’s well worth splashing out for a unique getaway experience at sea.
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