On cloud nine at Reykjavik’s Sky Lagoon

At Reykjavik’s newest geothermal spa you'll be soothed from top to toe, leaving with soft, nourished skin and a lasting feeling of deep relaxation. Senior features editor Lynne Maxwell headed to Iceland to sample the Sky Lagoon’s seven-step ritual for herself.

“Depending on the season, time of day, during storms… every visit here is unique, but one thing that’s a constant is the feeling you get when you leave,” says Frida Jonsdottir, marketing and brand director of Sky Lagoon, a new geothermal oceanside spa near Reykjavik city centre. We're chatting as I make my way to the swish dark brown and gold changing rooms, and the vibe is immediately reminiscent of a five-star hotel and feels sparkling clean. I quickly change, eager to get into the toasty 38-40°C (100-104°F) warm waters of the 230-foot (70m) infinity lagoon.

The first thing I notice in the lazy river-style entrance to the geothermal pool is how the design perfectly complements the nature surrounding it, while the lagoon itself looks like it’s part of the ocean as it seamlessly kisses the horizon. Differing nooks and crannies offer calm corners where steam drifts up into the air, before the view of the dramatic north Atlantic and moss-covered volcanic rock takes my breath away. To the right is a waterfall that’s begging to be sat under, so of course I do, before making my way past the lagoon bar to the plunge pool. I'm here to sample the spa's seven-step ritual, a relaxing yet rejuvenating wellness treatment that's aimed at tourists and locals alike.

Heidi Haraldsdottir/Sky Lagoon

Encouraging its visitors to embrace the Icelandic bathing culture, Sky Lagoon's multiple packages (Sky, Pure and Pure Lite) mean even the busiest people can reap the benefits of some spa time. The Pure Lite package is aimed at maximising a layover as flights between Europe and North America via Reykjavik become more popular. Only a 12-minute drive from the city centre (and 45 minutes from Keflavik airport), there's enough time to spend a blissful few hours here before an onward journey.

Step 1: The lagoon

Relaxing in the warm mineral-rich water is easy; leaving is not. Despite the lagoon’s literature inviting its visitors to take their time, I’m well aware I can’t actually move in, more’s the pity. Nevertheless, I embrace the stillness the water offers, while swimming gently to the infinity edge to soak up the incredible vistas. Allowing the geothermal waters to soothe my body is the main focus of this first step.

Heidi Haraldsdottir/Sky Lagoon

Step 2: The cold plunge

I’ll be honest, this is not something I've been looking forward to. Having been told it’s a cool 5°C (41°F), I’m a little apprehensive to leave the warm lagoon. Inspired by the oldest geothermal pool in the country – the Viking-era Snorralaug in Reykholt, west Iceland – the plunge pool promises to stimulate the immune system, reduce inflammation and leave you feeling invigorated. And it certainly delivers! The icy blast feels a lot colder than 5°C, but I do experience that natural endorphin rush and emerge feeling wide awake. Top tip: try not to tense up when you plunge to feel the full benefits. 

Heidi Haraldsdottir/Sky Lagoon

Step 3: Sauna

Out of the cold and into the 80-90°C (176-194°F) heat. This sensational sauna is set inside a replica of a traditional Icelandic turf house (these were grass roof-covered houses that kept Vikings warm through the rough climate and isolation during the 18th and 19th centuries). Inside, the absolute highlight is looking out of the biggest single-pane glass window in the country, which showcases perfect ocean views that are so beautiful they don’t seem real. Calming coastal acoustics add to the serenity of the moment. I can feel my pores opening as I gaze across the Atlantic and almost forget about the red-hot temperatures.

Heidi Haraldsdottir/Sky Lagoon

Step 4: Cold mist

Slowly stepping through a welcome spritz of cold water immediately cools me down, leaving my body feeling refreshed and revitalised. It’s only for a minute or two but it’s necessary after the intense heat of the sauna. Misting with cold water is beneficial for arthritis and can be achieved using your own shower, apparently. Although I can’t imagine mine providing the same feeling.

Step 5: Sky body scrub

I enter a dimly-lit, wetroom-style area that has little boxes of scrub dotted around. As I take one, I copy everyone else and gently rub it on my limbs. Exfoliating with the lagoon’s signature Sky Body Scrub (which is also sold in the shop, so you can buy one to repeat this step at home) gives off a delicious sweet smell of almond and sesame seed oils, while it helps to improve skin texture and unclog pores.

Heidi Haraldsdottir/Sky Lagoon

Step 6: Steam

Still with the exfoliating body scrub pleasantly seeping into my skin, I’m hit with a blanket of heat as I enter the steam room. Once again, the heat does its thing and opens my pores, while I close my eyes to maximise relaxation.

Step 7: Shower

I tear myself away from the steam room and hit the shower, watching tiny bits of the salty scrub disappear. A cliché it may be, but I genuinely feel that my mind, body and soul have been rejuvenated, and I feel incredibly refreshed.

Back in the lagoon, I decide to toast the end of a perfect afternoon with a glass of Champagne, ordered at the bar and charged to a wristband that I can pay for afterwards. 

Heidi Haraldsdottir/Sky Lagoon

Before I say goodbye to Frida and head for the Smakk Bar to try a traditional Icelandic tasting platter packed with local cheeses, gravlax (cured salmon) and reindeer, we chat more about the lagoon's design and she explains that even the water, a resource this country has in abundance, is treated with respect and used responsibly. 

“Each drop of geothermal water that comes to the lagoon goes through it four times: the lagoon first, then an insulated tank, before it heats the building and finally heats the car park outside (which is very much needed in winter)."

How very characteristic of this respectful nation. I’ll definitely be back.

For more information, visit skylagoon.com