With its spectacular geology and charming seaside attractions, this south coast town makes for a brilliant British getaway.
Dorset is bursting with big-hitting seaside spots but the former fishing town of Swanage packs plenty of punch while retaining a relaxed, local feel. It sits on the Isle of Purbeck, not actually an island but a lush peninsula famed for its wildlife and fossils, offering visitors both beach days and green spaces.
There’s plenty to keep kids big and small amused too, even if the mild maritime climate turns drizzly. Here are six reasons to book a break in Swanage.
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1. For Blue Flag beaches
Sandy, sheltered and gently shelved, Swanage Beach is the pride of the town and runs for just over a mile (2km), from chalk headland of Ballard Down in the north to Peveril Point at the south of the bay, broken up by the harbour area. It’s won a Blue Flag for its cleanliness and excellent water quality for 20 years in a row and is very accessible.
There are deckchairs and beach huts with brightly coloured doors for hire from Swanage Council, right beside the promenade and all its cafés, shops and attractions. A smaller stretch of sand and shingle next to the pier is quieter and favoured by anglers hunting bass and families trying their hand at crabbing.
2. For historic attractions
The Victorians turned this fishing and quarry town into a tourist hotspot and left their stamp on Swanage with the blue and white wooden pier, built in 1895 for passenger steamers. A saunter along this charming construction gives panoramic views of the bay but be sure to look down too – the plaques that adore the planks contain a mix of poignant and quirky dedications.
Another relic of the era revived by enthusiasts is Swanage Railway. It runs vintage steam and diesel trains several times daily on a five-mile (8km) track between the town and Norden, with the option to stop in quaint Corfe Castle, home to Swanage Railway Museum.
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You can step back even further in time at The Spyway Dinosaur Footprints at Keats Quarry, where more than 100 fossilised tracks dating back 140 million years are preserved in a layer of rock. The site is thought to have been a watering hole for brachiosaurs during the Jurassic Coast’s heyday.
But in nearby Tyneham, it will forever be 1943. The once idyllic village was evacuated during the Second World War to use for military rifle training and residents were never allowed to return. Still under the control of the Ministry of Defence, the public can visit this lost settlement on set weekends.
3. For world-class watersports
Britain’s first dive school – Divers Down - opened on Swanage Pier in 1958 and the bay is a dream for aquatic adventurers. Protected from major southwesterly storms with the Isle of Wight sheltering it from easterly ones, the waters are usually calm.
There’s scuba diving to suit all abilities with a special training section beneath the pier – a spot regarded as a British diving rite of passage thanks to its population of velvet crabs and pollock. You can also explore a vast number of First and Second World War wrecks.
Sailing, kayaking, canoeing, windsurfing and jet skiing are on offer too, with Pierhead Watersports hiring out equipment, providing tuition, leading tours and giving powerboat and ringo rides. If you’d prefer a more sedate pace, pedalos can be hired on the beach.
4. For tasty eats
Fishing was once the main income source in Swanage and you’ll find no-frills fresh seafood at Gee Whites, an al fresco café bar on the quayside. Their dressed crab is delicious with a glass of white. If you want traditional fish and chips, head to The Fish Plaice.
Love Cake is the place for brunch and sweet treats, while The 1859 Pier Café & Bistro serves breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea with a view. The best local meat can be found at The Salt Pig Too, a farm shop, butchery and café with all beef, lamb and pork reared within eight miles (13km), while Tawny’s Wine Bar has an extensive wine list paired with a menu rich with local produce.
Don’t miss a drive out to the Square & Compass at Worth Matravers. This atmospheric inn is almost 250 years old and has been frequented by everyone from smugglers to Nobel laureates. It serves hearty homemade pies and pasties with pints of its house cider.
5. For family fun
Crazy for adventure golf? Santa Fe Fun Park above the promenade boasts two courses – one with a pirate theme and the other based on Jurassic Park. Next door is Sandpit Fields, a park and play area once used for quarrying sand, while Beach Gardens to the north has a putting green.
Prince Albert Gardens on the headland behind the pier has an open-air amphitheatre with regular shows. It’s also a perfect spot for boat watching, especially when the world’s last sea-going paddle steamer, Waverley, is moored in town. You can book a pleasure cruise when it visits, while City Cruises Poole has Jurassic Coast tours and bird-watching excursions that sail from the pier.
Typically, the town has a busy events calendar, with blues and folk music festivals, the Isle of Purbeck Walking Festival, Swanage Fish Festival and the week-long Swanage Carnival and Regatta.
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6. For easy access to countryside and coast
The Isle of Purbeck is part of the Dorset Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, meaning Swanage is surrounded by beautiful walks and photo-worthy views, like Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove. Follow the South West Coast Path north along the beach to visit the iconic Old Harry Rocks chalk stacks, while heading south out of Swanage you’ll discover the peaceful retreat of Durlston Country Park.
This 320-acre green space is home to Durlston Castle with its visitor centre and art galleries, Anvil Point Lighthouse and the Great Globe, along a diverse community of wildlife. Dolphin sightings are common and migratory seabirds like guillemots flock there in summer.
You are also perfectly placed to explore the rugged beauty of nearby Studland Bay, the pretty village of Langston Matravers (where James Bond author Ian Fleming went to school) and The Blue Pool, a disused clay pit where the kaleidoscopic water turns from turquoise to green and even reddish-brown. This Site of Special Scientific Interest also has woodland walks, a children’s play area and Art Deco tea rooms.
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Lead image: Kenn Sharp/Shutterstock