If asked to imagine a remote Icelandic settlement, you’d probably come up with something that looked a lot like Eskifjordur. This petite fishing town in Iceland’s far east has all the usual charms: colourful buildings reflected in still waters, a necklace of rugged peaks and a handful of cute seafood spots. It’s reached via road, with stark, volcanic scenery opening out on either side and views of the towering Holmatindur mountain.

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