32 astonishing things you never knew about North Korea
Going on holiday to North Korea
North Korea is one of the most widely spoken about, secretive countries on Earth – but that doesn't mean it’s impossible to visit. We spoke to a handful of intrepid travellers who have made the trip to find out what it's really like to travel to North Korea.
You'll be accompanied by guides
The best way to travel to North Korea is through an organised tour company. Though it’s possible to go without one, you’ll still need to be accompanied by a pair of guides, so a fully independent trip is impossible. Hilary Bradt, founder of Bradt Travel Guides, also tells The Rough Guide to Everywhere podcast that a guided tour is the most cost-effective option.
It’s easier to get a visa than you might think, unless you're American
Given the mystery shrouding North Korea, you might assume obtaining a visa would be near impossible – but, in fact, that’s generally not the case. “Contrary to popular belief, the process of obtaining tourist visas for North Korea is actually very simple,” Dylan Harris of tour company Lupine Travel tells The Telegraph. “The only requirement is that you are booked on a pre-planned tour with two North Korean guides for company.” However, there are still restrictions in place on the use of a US passport for travel to North Korea, and visitors will need a Special Validation Passport from the Department of State.
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You may need to leave your phone at the airport
While regulations on foreign mobile phones entering the country have eased, only “qualifying phones” are allowed, so you still risk having your handset seized at the border. If your phone makes it through, you’ll need to buy a local sim card once you arrive. And you'll won't be able to use it to call locals either – North Koreans with mobile phones use a telecommunications provider called Koryolink. It's thought to be a closed network, and is closely monitored by the government.
You should be careful when taking photographs
While taking photos is not wholly forbidden in North Korea, you should exercise caution. Your guides will tell you when you can get your camera out, and it's highly likely your camera will be checked by border officials when you leave North Korea, too. You'll be told not to take pictures of military personnel or construction sites, and reminded that pictures of statues of the Kims should include the entire statue – cutting off the feet or the head is a major no-no, as are selfies.
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There are statues of North Korea’s leaders everywhere
Speaking of statues, you'll never be far from a tribute to the country's leaders, past or present. There are over 34,000 statues of the late Kim Il-sung alone. In Pyongyang's Grand Monument on Mansu Hill, you'll find over 200 statues of military leaders, include 66-foot-tall (20m) bronze statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. Visitors are expected to bow to statues of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il when visiting them, and will usually be asked to lay flowers at their base.
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There’s a huge festival dedicated to art and gymnastics
The Arirang Mass Games are a big deal here. Once an annual event, the games are an extravagant show of patriotism, involving thousands of performers and participants. They have been met with condemnation from around the world due to their exorbitant celebration of the North Korean regime, and were halted for unknown reasons in 2013. But the Mass Games are back for 2019. The May Day stadium – the largest in the world by capacity – has been the historic home of the event.
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Pyongyang has a surprising microbrewery scene
Pyongyang might not be the first place you expect to find great beer culture – but the city hasn’t escaped the global obsession with the craft brew. The top three breweries are Taedonggang National Brewery, Yanggakdo Hotel Microbrewery and The Paradise Microbrewery. Advertising worker Josh Thomas, who visited all three in 2013, told Wired: “The North Koreans are incredibly clever at making do with very little, and they honestly are able to make more interesting beers than most other countries."
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There are several large theme parks
The country also boasts a handful of large theme parks, most of which are clustered around the capital. They do, however, come with mixed reviews. The Washington Post described Munsu Water Park (pictured), completed in 2013, as “the creepiest water park you’ve ever seen." But theme-park lover Stefan Zwanzger, who visited the country in 2010, told CNN: "There's no other occasion that you can get so close to locals as in the amusement parks."
North Korea’s metro stations rival Russia’s
Pyongyang’s subway stations are some of the most spectacular in the world. Photographer Elaine Li, who visited in 2017, told CNN: “The stations are very dimly lit and the interiors are very fancy. You see chandeliers on the ceilings, marble pillars and paintings of Kim Jong-il.” They've also got some of the longest escalators in the world (hardly surprising given it's the world's deepest metro system) and are designed to double as bomb shelters.
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Cannabis is legal, kind of
US states such as Colorado and Nevada hit the headlines when they legalised recreational marijuana use – but, reportedly, weed has long been permitted in North Korea. According to The Telegraph, restricting its use is not a government priority. Sokeel Park, a director of non-profit organisation Liberty in North Korea told the publication: “Cannabis grows wildly in North Korea and has even been sold abroad by government agencies as a way to earn foreign currency.” However, North Korean tour company Koryo Tours claims reports surrounding the use of the drug are exaggerated and advises visitors to keep off it.
You can go to university in Pyongyang
Australian student Alek Sigley was recently thrown out of North Korea, ending his studies at Pyongyang's Kim Il-Sung University. Sigley was one of several foreign students at the university. The nearby Pyongyang University for Science and Technology actively encourages applications from foreign teachers, and several Americans have worked there in the past. Even more surprising? The institution was founded by Korean-American James Kim, an evangelical Christian who opened the university in 2010.
They have modern technology
Denis Sharpe, who visited North Korea in 2017, said he was surprised by the amount of technology and other goods you can find in the country. "There is actually a department store full of consumer goods that you would find in a market-led economy. As I was there for New Year, we were taken to Kim Il-Sung Square, where there was a fireworks display at midnight – many North Koreans were filming on mobile phones."
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They have pizza and fried chicken
Though traditional Korean food is, of course, ubiquitous, you can find fast food treats such as pizza and fried chicken too. Sharpe says: "We had kimchi, hot pot and even one serving of dog soup. But the new regime has made efforts to offer more cosmopolitan cuisines in Pyongyang too. We had a pizza on the tour bus one day (complete with Pizza Hut packaging).”
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Propaganda is everywhere
Sharpe also noticed a large amount of propaganda across the country, particularly in relation to the Korean War. "It’s often best to nod along in agreement and not challenge the information presented to you – who knows what would happen if you disagreed too vehemently?" he says.
It's very safe
Tom McShane, operations director of adventure travel company Secret Compass, went to North Korea in 2016. According to McShane, the country is generally very safe for tourists and the guides you'll meet are charming and hospitable. "There is practically zero crime, and we were briefed by the guides about the rules," he says. "We were aware of the implications if you flout those rules, such as what happened to Otto Warmbier – but as long as you are sensible, it is all mostly common sense."
It's a beautiful country
McShane found himself bowled over by the sheer beauty of North Korea's landscapes. "The mountains were incredible, and as we were trekking in autumn all of the trees displayed amazing colours of reds and orange," he remembers.
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There are plans to build a major beach resort
Those who make it to North Korea often speak of the country’s natural beauty – and its sandy beaches are no exception. But strands such as Wonsan have often been used as sites for controversial missile testing, however CNN reported that Kim Jong-un’s government plan to open a large beach resort here, in a bid to attract tourists, is well underway. The future result remains to be seen.
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The food is surprisingly good
Despite previous misgivings, McShane describes the food as a highlight of his trip – he was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the dishes presented and the variety on offer. He says: "It was mostly Korean style, but we also had some North Korean specialities such as cold noodle soup, which is traditionally served at wedding banquets. We visited a restaurant in Wonsan for lunch that served amazing fresh fish too."
The people are lovely
McShane was taken with the people of North Korea too. "Most of the people we saw were going about their normal lives, whether it was commuting in the cities, or working in the farms in the countryside," he says. "Most people we did engage with were obviously working in the service industry. Everyone was incredibly courteous, polite and well mannered. The guides were exceptional, with incredible English, senses of humour and knowledge."
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The hotels are decent and varied
When it comes to accommodation, there's a decent amount of choice and many hotels have fantastic amenities. "We got to stay in a big tower based on an island in Pyongyang. It has a bowling alley and karaoke bar," McShane explains. "We also stayed in a guesthouse in Myohyangsan which felt a little Chinese in style, and we got to stay in a hotel at the new ski resort, which was of a very high standard."
There's an International Friendship Museum
Perhaps one of the most unique sights is the International Friendship Museum, which contains more than 100,000 gifts presented to North Korea's leaders. According to McShane: "There is a taxidermied crocodile from Nicaragua, a bulletproof car from Stalin, and a train from Chairman Mao, which is all situated deep within a mountain. It was truly bonkers!"
You can visit no man's land
Freelance travel writer Lucy Corne took a trip to North Korea in 2008 and got to see the demilitarized zone (DMZ) – a buffer zone between the neighbouring countries – from both the north and south sides. “It was very interesting to visit the demilitarized zone tour from the north as we had also done it from the south. We discovered that both sides feed propaganda: for example in the south they tell you there are no trees in the north and that the building at the DMZ is just a façade with nothing behind it, which is not actually true.”
Everything is big
Freelance journalist Tamara Hinson toured in 2011 and was taken aback by "the scale of everything", from the monuments to the mountains to the sheer amount of people at the Mass Games (an arts and gymnastics festival unique to North Korea).
You see a contrived version of the country
Beyond this, Hinson doubts that tourists see a full picture of the country. Meetings with locals are carefully orchestrated – Hinson visited co-op farms and a school during her stay – and tour groups are generally not allowed to leave their hotel once settled at night. "I found it weird thinking that often just out of sight there could be a prison camp: some are the size of entire counties and close to Pyongyang," Hinson says. "When you’re in a tour group you follow a very set route."
Government "minders" follow you everywhere
Hinson also describes how so-called "minders" accompany guests on tours – three such individuals accompanied Hinson's group. "The British leader of my group told me how years ago someone on one of his tours had been caught wearing glasses with a hidden camera, which is the most stupid thing to do," she reveals. "The North Korean guide was very upset because it all blew up. Everyone knew and word could have potentially got back that this had happened on her watch and she’d be punished."
You aren't just responsible for your own safety
Breaking rules can have consequences for those around you, as well as yourself. If you choose to disobey orders, it may be your guide who is punished. "Our British tour leader told us that sometimes he’ll come back to the country to do a tour and ask about a guide he’s been allocated on previous occasions, and has been told that he’s 'been sent to the countryside', which essentially means he’s been sent to a prison camp," Hinson says.
You can't ask too many questions
However curious you might be, it's best to avoid posing too many questions. Hinson says: "I asked our British guide where Kim Jong-il lived (I went just before he died) and he told me to be quiet. Many North Koreans view him as a demi-god who doesn't do normal things like use the toilet and live in a house."
There are some odd rules
Some of the many rules enforced may seem odd to visitors, and they can be difficult to get your head around. "Don’t fold anything with the Kims’ faces on the cover if the crease will go across the face. This applies to things like the copy of the Pyongyang Times you’re given on the flight over there," Hinson advises.
Your money might support nefarious activities
Hinson explains that, since you'll travel on an inclusive tour, you'll not need much money while travelling in North Korea. But she purports that money you do spend could be put to problematic use. She claims: "North Korea desperately wants cash to fund dodgy smuggling and other enterprises, such as money laundering. Tourists give money to the regime by paying for the hotels, meals and more.”
There's a side to the country you'll never see
Many people underestimate the North Korean stories that remain hidden from view, Hinson believes. She reveals one she discovered after her trip: "I met Shin Dong-hyuk, a former prisoner who escaped a North Korean prison camp and is now a human rights activist. Shin is in his late 40s, but was born in a prison camp. As a child, he was forced to watch his mother be executed for plotting an escape. I also read about other defectors’ stories."
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You can take part in a North Korean marathon
Simon Cockerell, general manager of Koryo Tours, has been to North Korea 175 times. "The fundamental rules and policies on tourism haven't really changed, but the amount of things tourists can see and do has steadily increased," says Cockerell. "The main event which draws tourists is the Pyongyang Marathon, in April – Koryo Tours is the exclusive foreign partner. Other events open to outsiders include the Pyongyang International Film Festival.
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There's plenty of food for tourists
Due to past famine in North Korea, Cockerell explains, many tourists expect that there will not be enough food for everyone to eat. “I have been on tours when some people have brought vast amounts of food with them. If they were given nothing to eat on the trip they would still have had more than enough just from what was in their case.”
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