The Charentes region in southwest France might not be as well-known among international tourists as its neighbour, the Dordogne, and yet it has plenty of understated appeal: great wines (and not forgetting its world-renowned Cognacs); pretty villages with winding, cobbled streets and bucolic views; and historic riches, from subterranean churches to handsome, stately châteaux.
Read on to discover more about the Charentes, France...
Of course, this being France, the food is another major draw, whether you’re after fine dining or trips to lively markets selling fresh produce and serving delicious local dishes. Delicacies here are rustic and reflect the locals’ fuss-free attitude: there’s cagouilles, or snails cooked in tomatoes, garlic and white wine; grillon charentais, a melt-in-the-mouth pork pâté; and mild, creamy local cheeses such as la taupinette, made with raw goat’s milk.
Wash it all down with a light-bodied, fruity Charentais wine, or top it off with a glass of amber-hued Cognac.
The Charentes and its highlights, including the verdant vineyards of the Cognac region, are best enjoyed on a road trip over three or four days, and could also work well as part of a wider trip taking in the marvels of southwest France.
Summer is a popular time to visit, but for a quieter experience, visit in early October when the leaves are turning shades of mustard and russet, and the distilleries are fragrant with the aromas of Cognac being distilled.
Here are some of the best things to see and do in the Charentes over four days...
No visit to the Charentes or neighbouring Charente-Maritime area is complete without learning more about its most famous export, Cognac – an amber brandy that derives its name from the region it comes from. Cognac houses here include world-famous names such as Rémy Martin and Hennessy, with many local growers selling their grapes to them for blending.
The local growers are usually family-run businesses that also offer tours of their vineyards and distilleries. At Ernest & Louis, located near the rolling hills of Saint-Martial-Vitaterne, hop on an electric bike to explore the company’s vineyards on an audio tour. Whether you’re a Cognac aficionado or a novice, you’ll enjoy learning about the humble Ugni Blanc grape's journey from harvest and double distillation in copper pot stills to aging for at least two years in French oak barrels.
A scenic 40-minute drive away from Ernest & Louis is Conte et Filles, run by two sisters offering free tours of their grounds every day throughout the year (except Sundays), and whose passion for their fifth-generation business and its produce is palpable.
To round off the tours, both Ernest & Louis and Conte et Filles offer Cognac tastings, from caramelly VSOPs (aged for at least four years) to rich XOs (aged for a minimum of 10), featuring notes of candied fruits. Both distilleries also offer a tasting of fresh and fruity fortified wine, Pineau des Charentes, made with a mixture of harvested grape juice (known as must) and Cognac eau-de-vie from last year’s distillation process. The drink is much-loved by locals and is often served as a chilled aperitif.
This 19th-century mansion and former wine estate in Lachaise village is now a welcoming guesthouse run by husband-and-wife Bernard and Shandra, who moved to France from Réunion Island in 2020. Visitors can expect a homely atmosphere, with a shared living room featuring maps of Réunion, a bookshelf creaking with tomes, and family photos adorning the fireplace. Rooms here are spacious and comfortable, and the sound of the nearby stream is sure to lull you to sleep.
Bernard’s Creole home cooking is a highlight: tuna-filled samosas followed by prawn curry and white beans in a turmeric sauce; then crème brûlée for dessert, polished off alongside a punchy glass of local Cognac.
A 45-minute drive from Domaine de Pladuc through undulating, vineyard-dotted French countryside takes you to the quaint hilltop village of Villebois-Lavalette, home to a medieval, fortified castle dating from the 10th century (pictured), as well as a Romanesque church with pastoral views.
Come here on a Saturday morning to take in the sights and smells of the village’s traditional outdoor market, held in covered wooden halls dating back to the 12th century (and renovated in the 17th). Grab a cornuelle – a traditional, shortbread-style biscuit once enjoyed by pilgrims and now often eaten on Palm Sunday – and sit in the square opposite to watch village life unfold. Download the free Terra Aventura app to find out interesting titbits about the village as you wander its winding stone streets.
Locals rave about Les Drôles: a relaxed, welcoming restaurant in Condéon run by local chef Eliza and her partner Raphael, who is front of house. The frequently changing set menu is impressively cheap (£14.50/$19 for three courses), though that has no bearing on the quality.
On my visit, I tuck into a moreish plate of charcuterie, a hearty dish of squid slathered in garlic and parsley sauce served with creamy mash and spinach; and even find room for a hefty portion of comforting chocolate and pear mousse. The restaurant is fully booked when we visit on a weekday afternoon, and the atmosphere is friendly, with Eliza coming out of the kitchen to serve some courses.
It’s not hard to see why this charming village has been named the most beautiful in the Charentes and one of the most beautiful in France. Its pretty, lime tree-dotted square is perfect for a coffee pitstop, before strolling around the smattering of artisanal shops run by artists, ceramists, woodworkers, florists and leather workers. Wander the village’s meandering cobbled streets to admire the white stone houses and their wooden, flower-draped balconies, and for views out to the neighbouring Dordogne countryside.
Aubeterre-sur-Dronne's jewel in the crown is its underground church of St Jean, a marvel of engineering dating back to the 12th century that's been hewn from the limestone cliffs the village sits upon. At 66 feet (20m) high and with an accessible public gallery at 59 feet (18m), it’s the largest subterranean church in Europe and features a 20-foot-high (6m) reliquary that’s reportedly a replica of Jesus’s tomb.
Make time to also visit the village’s church of Saint Jacques, whose Romanesque facade remains after the rest of it was demolished in 1562 during the French Wars of Religion, and later restored.
Aubeterre’s family-run Hôtel du Périgord has 11 rooms, a small swimming pool, and a restaurant serving hearty fare from the southwest. Think foie gras cooked in Cognac (or, for the foie gras-averse, scallop ravioli); pork shoulder cooked in its juices; and seasonal soufflés (chestnut in autumn, when we visit). The restaurant also has a five-course tasting menu for £51pp ($67).
If you prefer to hit the hay in the countryside rather than ‘in town’, there’s Casa Sana near Pillac. Set in five acres of grounds, guests have a range of accommodation options, from cheerfully designed rooms and eco lodges to a gypsy-style caravan, or even a glass dome that’s perfect for stargazing in summer.
The family-friendly B&B also has an on-site swimming pool, hot tub, and a small farm, and guests are welcome to borrow bikes. Breakfast includes fresh apple or grape juice grown onsite, eggs from their chickens, and jams homemade by friendly host, Sandrine. She can also prepare dinner on request.
A 45-minute drive from Casa Sana will take you to the small, creative city of Angoulême. You’ll explore the city further tomorrow, but today it’s time to burn off some of that French cuisine with a scenic bike ride along the Charente River. La Flow Vélo is a 249-mile-long (400 km) cycle route stretching from Sarlat-la-Canéda in the Dordogne to the island of Aix in Charente-Maritime on the Atlantic coast, and the cycle route also crosses right through the Charentes' Cognac region.
Hire bikes from café La Musette de Papa (pictured), which also serves tasty sandwiches, coffee and sweet treats to fuel your journey. From here, take the Flow Vélo route towards Châteauneuf-sur-Charente, or in the opposite direction to Marthon. Both journeys are around a 30k round-trip – or just cycle some of the route to take in pretty views of the Charente river and its surrounding villages, stopping for a riverside picnic along the way.
Located in a lovingly restored former grocery in the quiet village of Venat, this small guesthouse is pretty as a picture, with its three colourful rooms adorned with plants, vintage furniture and books. Host Monique and her fluffy cat Mimi will make you feel right at home here – curl up with a book from the library with a slice of brioche laden with homemade jam in front of the crackling fireplace, or in summer, bask in the pretty, sun-dappled terrace.
Dinner is rustic and satisfying: a tortilla-style omelette served with salad and fresh goat’s cheese, followed by apple pie. Monique sells homemade jams and juices in the old grocery part of the house, which make perfect, attractive gifts for loved ones back home.
Quirky Angoulême has a fun, youthful energy thanks to its claim to fame as the international home of the comic strip, with many students moving here to study art or comic book creation. The UNESCO Creative City runs the world-famous Angoulême International Comics Festival at the end of January every year, when around 200,000 visitors descend on the city. It’s also home to a fascinating comic strip museum, Musée de la Bande Dessinée, featuring thousands of drawings and more than 250,000 magazines and comic books from around the world.
Around Angoulême, you’ll spot more than 30 murals brightening up street corners and celebrating some of the world’s much-loved comic strip characters, from Astérix to Titeuf, as well as the artists who created them.
Appreciate art of a different kind with a visit to Angoulême's neo-Romanesque Cathedral of Saint Pierre, which was restored in the 19th century by architect Paul Abadie, who also designed Paris’s Sacré-Coeur.
The church contains a surprising feature: a treasury featuring 147 precious and religious items in an immersive space conceived and designed by modern French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel. The highlight is a modern stained glass window embellished with aluminium rings. Guided tours of the beautiful space can be booked via the Angoulême Tourist Office.
Before you fly home, stock up on local produce at Les Halles, the city’s buzzy covered market, a historic building fashioned from cast iron and glass that was built in the 1800s. Mooch around the stalls selling meat, fish, cheeses, wines, Cognacs, as well as a rainbow-coloured array of fruit and vegetables, before stopping for lunch at one of the restaurants found inside the market.
We plump for friendly new joint L’entrepotes, which serves brunch, traditional meat dishes such as duck confit and steak, as well as a selection of rolls and delicious burgers. Save some room for dessert: the tiramisù and apple tarte Tatin are especially good.
Abra Dunsby flew to Bordeaux Mérignac airport from London Gatwick and hired a car from the airport to explore the Charentes region. Trains also connect Bordeaux with many of the destinations mentioned, with TGV trains reaching Angoulême from Bordeaux in 30-45 minutes. The car journey from Angoulême to Bordeaux takes around one hour and 30 minutes.
Abra Dunsby was a guest of Explore Cognac and Charentes Tourisme.