El Gouna laces Egypt’s Red Sea coastline with lagoons, canals and 36 man-made islands, which scatter the water like emeralds. This resort town is packed with the good things in life – a pick ‘n’ mix of attractions and activities to suit pretty much any type of visitor. Throw in average temperatures ranging from 15°C (59°F) in January to 30°C (86°F) in July, and it’s surprising that it flies under many holidaymakers’ radars.
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El Gouna (literally ‘the lagoon’) is a little different to the rest of the country. It lacks the hustle and bustle of its gateway city, Hurghada, around half an hour’s drive south. It isn’t home to ancient monuments or pyramids (highlights of Cairo and Luxor). What it does offer, in spades, is relaxed luxury and just about everything you could need for a safe, stress-free holiday, packed with as much (or as little) adventure as you fancy.
This man-made holiday idyll started in 1989, when billionaire Samih Onsi Sawiris commissioned a marina where he and his friends could moor their yachts, with a few choice villas thrown in for good measure. It sprawled out over the decades, with more villas and holiday homes followed by hotels, restaurants, a downtown area and the bigger Abu Tig Marina – the latter two now being the main hubs of activity outside of the resorts.
It’s now a full-blown town and, while it makes an ideal base for exploring other highlights of the so-called Red Sea Riviera, there’s plenty to do within its gates. (Rather like arriving at a big resort, everyone coming in and out must pass a security checkpoint.) From diving and watersports to burnished-gold beaches and a buggy safari through the dunes, everything here is within easy reach.
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Having bagged itself a prime chunk of Red Sea coastline, El Gouna grew into a network of lagoons and canals, earning it the nickname ‘Venice of the Red Sea’. A lagoon boat trip is the ideal introduction, passing by chic resorts and villas from wooden structures on stilts to mighty mansions. The small boats, which pick up from downtown and can be arranged via any hotel, cruise under looping bridges and offer views over the sparkling lagoon out to the navy and turquoise-dappled Red Sea.
The Red Sea is a hotspot for diving, with warm waters and vibrant coral reefs easily reached from the shore. Experienced divers can rent equipment, and join trips to reefs and wrecks from ORCA Dive Club in Abu Tig Marina. Boats take you out to wreck diving sites in the north, including famous spots from Abu Nuhas reef. For keen novices, most schools here offer lessons and some also cater for kids aged eight and above.
For a gentler pace, this area is idyllic for snorkelling – a stroll compared to scuba diving’s strenuous hike. Most hotels and resorts will have equipment that you can don for a pootle around the lagoons, accessed straight from any beach. For just about the perfect snorkelling conditions imaginable, though, head to Zaytouna (or Zeytuna) Island, pictured – the shallow, limpid waters and long wooden pier make accessing the coral reefs a breeze.
Many coastal areas attract kitesurfers, but the conditions in El Gouna – with just enough wind to power the kite, yet relatively flat waters to allow the board to glide smoothly – are perfect. You need to register with a kitesurfing centre, whether you’re a beginner or a pro – try Kite El Gouna on Mangroovy Beach, which is considered one of the best spots here for kitesurfing and other wind-powered watersports like parasailing.
If you’ve ever fancied trying wakeboarding – where you’re towed, feet bound to a board, behind a motorboat – this is your chance. Sliders Cable Park is one of the world’s largest Olympic-standard cable parks, with cables to pull you around the water. It’s a safe, stress-free spot to learn to wakeboard, and you can also try the easier kneeboarding (where you kneel, rather than stand on the board).
With water temperatures remaining above 20℃ (68℉) year-round, there’s never a bad time to take a dip. You’re never more than an easy stroll from the lagoons here, and most resorts have sandy beaches with loungers. At Steigenberger, find chic beach beds (pictured) right by the water’s edge (and conveniently close to the outdoor pool and bar). For all-day beaching, there’s also a larger sweep of beach, with loungers sheltered by U-shaped screens – so it has a wonderfully private feel, even when it’s busy.
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Did we mention the lagoons? Life really does revolve around the water here, as it should. Many of the resorts have watersports centres attached, so it’s easy to rent a paddleboard or kayak for an hour or two. The flat waters mean you definitely don’t need to be a pro, but give passing small boats a wide berth. You can also book lessons and SUP yoga sessions via Duotone Pro Center, which has boards to rent.
El Gouna’s resorts cram in plenty to do, but there’s more life to be found away from the hotel pools and beaches. Abu Tig Marina is one of the main hubs for when you want to explore a little more, and a very pretty one at that. When the sun is shining (as it does on average for 350 days a year here), this area of tinkling boats, chic souvenir and clothing stores, and waterfront cafes and restaurants positively sparkles.
Among the many lovely places to eat here is the wonderfully relaxed Boho Cafe. The breezy spot by the water, with only masts and sails interrupting the view of blue, has tables that spill outside and a menu that makes you wish you were even hungrier. Brunch is a treat, with dishes like eggs Benedict with a parmesan ‘basket’, genuinely delicious smoothies and gooey cakes. There’s also a nice play area inside, which is a brilliant bonus for those travelling with toddlers.
Exploring downtown is another must. There are several shops and stalls selling the usual souvenirs, from camel fridge magnets and figurines to textiles. If you only head down once, make it an evening trip. Shops open late and the restaurants that line palm-studded Tamr Henna have plenty of outdoor tables. Try terrific tacos at Chicha, linger over pizza and wine at Zia Amelia, or feast on affordably priced Egyptian specialities (including ful – fava bean stew – served various ways) at Zomba.
A colourful quirk of El Gouna is that the most prominent method of transport, aside from cars, is the tuk-tuk. With a set journey price of 45 EGP each way (around 70p/90¢), these motorised rickshaws also provide a cheap and easy way to hop around the town (nothing is very far away). Most offer cheap tours too – look for a sign in the cab, or just ask. Find them adding pops of pink, yellow and orange to the scene in downtown and Abu Tig Marina, or ask your hotel to call one for you. There are regular taxis too.
El Gouna may be something of a man-made paradise, but the location is no accident – aside from the Red Sea, it’s edged by desert. Explore this natural beauty with a sunset dune buggy tour with Alex Safari (you can also go via quad bike or Jeep), self-driving through canyons, visiting a Bedouin village and stopping to see the sun swallowed by distant mountains. The trip ends with a substantial and very tasty barbecue dinner, before guests are shuttled back to their hotels.
Steigenberger Golf Resort is (as the name suggests) a paradise for putters, with an 18-hole golf course reached from the main part of the resort via a quick free boat ride or via a looping bridge. Even non-golfers will enjoy the novelty of the aqua driving range. You’re encouraged to putt towards the turquoise lagoon, aiming for your ball to land on one of the tiny islands. The balls are designed to float, so those that miss can be collected later on.
On the golf course (and open to all, regardless of whether you’re staying at this hotel) is the town’s highest viewpoint, the Steigenberger Golf Tower. Sometimes simply called El Gouna Tower, it stands at a relatively lofty 36 feet (11m) and offers 360-degree views from its wraparound deck at the top. Come just before sunset, grab a cocktail from the downstairs bar, and watch the lagoons, islands and elegant villas get drenched in apricot light. You might notice the uniformity – buildings must stick to the 10 official colours, all muted, rich, earthy tones. Pictured is the view from the tower.
A short drive, taxi or tuk-tuk ride into the desert will bring you to Habiba Horse El Gouna stables, a beautifully kept facility where you’ll instantly feel at peace with the world. Sip mint tea while the horses – all clearly loved and respected by the staff – are saddled up. It’s around an hour’s leisurely ride to a quiet beach, where you can then canter along the sand and (if the horses fancy a dip) into the sea. Trips, which last up to three hours, are timed to enjoy sunset or sunrise by the water.
Guests staying half-board or all-inclusive at any Orascom property (owners of 18 hotels on the island, including Casa Cook and Steigenberger) can book meals at sister hotels as part of their package. Among the loveliest spots is Nihon, a Japanese-inspired restaurant at luxurious resort, The Chedi. Sushi and dishes like Thai red chicken curry, vegetarian noodles and beef teriyaki are paired with Egyptian-themed cocktails and gorgeous open views over the sea, fringed by palms.
Steigenberger boasts El Gouna’s only teppanyaki restaurant – and it’s well worth booking a table even if you’re staying elsewhere (it’s also included in the Dine Around package). Harumaki’s best seats are around the teppanyaki grill or hot plate, where the chef performs a fiery show complete with lightning-speed chopping, supreme egg-catching skills and some dramatic flambeing. The menu includes salad, soup, a choice of beef tenderloin, seafood, vegetables and chicken, and seasonal fruit flambe with ice cream.
The marina is especially lovely after dark, when the moonlight catches the water and the tinkle of masts is joined by music from the bars and restaurants. A top choice is Tandoor, an Indian restaurant that has regular live music nights on its chic terrace, where wicker lights dangle from a bamboo roof and cocktails are shaken up at the outdoor bar. Go hungry, as the food – from tasty bar bites to flavour-packed kebabs, dal makhani (black lentils) and butter chicken – is incredible.
You can book day trips to Luxor or Cairo from El Gouna, but the most accessible excursion is to Hurghada, just half an hour’s drive away. The popular beach resort town also offers scuba diving spots but, for a different vibe, make a beeline for the old town, El Dahar, to explore the scents, sounds and shops of the souks, ducking into coffee houses when you need a break. Don’t miss the breathtaking Al Mina (or El Mina) Mosque, pictured, built with pure white marble.
Steigenberger Golf Resort is that rare thing – a chic hotel that’s also wonderfully relaxed and family friendly. Regardless of whether you like golf, you’ll fall for the architecture, with buildings in the town’s signature Nubian colours and standout features including arches, blooming gardens and huge balconies with striking round viewpoints. There’s a lovely pool area with restaurant and bar, but the wooden, semi-enclosed beach beds will tempt you closer to the lagoon. A double room costs from £159 (around $200) per night, half board, based on two sharing.
easyJet offers daily direct flights to Hurghada from Manchester, London Gatwick and Luton. Many of the hotels will arrange a transfer, or you can book a taxi or private transfer for around 400-500 EGP (less than £8.50) each way. This photo shows an aerial view of Steigenberger's lagoon beach.
For more information and to plan a trip, visit elgouna.com
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