On the Dalmatian coast, five miles (8km) south of Dubrovnik, lie the crumbling remains of a former state-of-the-art tourist complex built for Yugoslavia’s military elite and their families. In the 1960s, there were six hotels here – the Grand, Kupari, Goricina, Goricine II, Galeb and Pelegrin – which had enough rooms combined for 1,600 guests simultaneously. While regular holidaymakers were allowed to book into Kupari, the resort was so exclusive that availability was hard to come by unless you knew the right people.